MASH-ISH! J'PAKECH'S BUS TIP FROM KAMPALA TO NAIROBI
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| Taking off from National Theatre |
The brilliant East Africa (Uganda) and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too, I am scheduling a lot more travel around the East African community states after this Corona PANDUMBIC so passed! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi only twice, and can recommend it.
The Interstate Pass allows visa-free travel between the East Africanf Community fornationals and expats with work permits, traveling from Kampala to Kigali? Then wait to read what happened when I traveled by bus with Jaguar Executive Coaches.
Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey. Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up… over and over again.
I and some out-spoken Somali lady who sat next to me liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus, we really laughed when discussing about it. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though hahaaaa!
The MASH system is well organized and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair or give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.
The MASH bus stop in Nairobi is downtown in River Road
Back at the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another two or three men dressed in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove all valuables from my bag, which obviously I didn't want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of them that I’d put in my back laptop bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.
The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I sat in the second (economy) class section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat. My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.
Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice’. My experience of long travels or journey is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.
The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border. Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had it along with my passport, something I didn't like was seeing a real corruption at immigration office -this comes when a certain man (Ugandan) had no yellow fever card he was made to pay 120k bobs and he wasn't vaccinated, meaning he only paid for the card to grant him access like literally I felt bad.
If you travel between the two East African capitals during the day, you get to see the beautiful countryside of Lake Elementaita and the area’s volcanic calderas
Early morning view of Lake Elementaita – photo from my bus window on my return travel
According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elementeita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi-Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO - God thank you so much I've been a Geography student for six years in highschool.
Raimha (the Somali lady) complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat. “You snooze, you lose!” As she likes to tell me… Lol.
Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi
MASH buses leave on time. The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre. Tel +256 (0)790 915726 / 0703 867307. In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0) 774082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself and it worked perfectly. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers and then confirmed via mobile money and a second phone call.
The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Tel +254 718121251 / 708939319. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa, as an African village boy I had to by myself to the booking office - so it's just up to you to choose what's convenient.
To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices. You can also connect with MASH on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook.
Please don’t email me, I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you!
MASH bus Nairobi booking office, River Road
2018 bus prices from Kampala to Nairobi in Uganda shillings (UGX)
At 5 pm MASH POA departs from the National Theatre. Ticket prices are: VIP 90k UGX, business class 80k UGX, ordinary 65k UGX and this MASH POA buses are just like our usual GAAGAA OR KK TRAVELLERS buses if you have been to West Nile (Pakwach, Nebbi, Paidha, Arua and Koboko)
At 6 pm MASH COOL (the air-conditioned bus, the one I boarded) departs. Ticket prices are: VIP 120k UGX, business class 85k UGX (there are two classes of ticket only). At 5 pm MASH POA departs from outside the MASH office in River Road. Ticket prices are: VIP 2,600 KES, business class 2,400 KES, ordinary 2,000 KES.
At 9am MASH COOL (because I boarded in the morning, otherwise you will have to check travel timetable on thier website) departs. Ticket prices are: VIP 3,500 KES, business class 2,500 KES (there are two classes of ticket only).
MASH COOL is the air-conditioned bus. MASH POA can get a bit sweaty! I liked MASH Cool, though you will need a blanket (or suuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.
Make sure you have your Yellow Fever Certificate on you.
Make sure you have your passport or a national ID for EAC nationals and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate as well).
Although the bus does have power sockets, however in my experience they work. So I would say don't forget to take powerbank battery for long journeys so you can access anything at any time.
Nationals of East African Community just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border as well. There is no form to fill in (just the standard arrivals form) and there is no cost. Baaaam 👊!
If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance (for non EAC nationals), whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (you’ll need to read my blog about to keep you posted).
The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed a bit and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system so fascinating because you can't cross to the other side without being verified!
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| Evening Mash Cool Selfie |
The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.”
In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
Modern Coast have also been recommended to me too. A seriously great option that I highly recommend for the Kampala – Nairobi route. They offer excellent value services too, provided you book well in advance.
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